Part 3 Jason Mask Full Walkthrough Definitive Guide

Welcome back. This is the definitive guide to everything you'd ever want to know about Jason Vorhees's original 1982 hockey mask. We're going to go over the history and origins of the mask. We're going to look at where to find reference picks and we're going to go over some of the different ways you can create replica. So, grab whatever. Sit back and enjoy. So, her story begins with this character, Shelley Greenblat. Greenblat? Yeah. Well, that's his name in the novelization. guess they figured Finkelstein was better name. Well, anyway, this character is played by Larry Zerner, who's one of the coolest people in the franchise. If it wasn't for him taking the time out of his busy life to explain to us what was going on with the lawsuits, we might have never known. Larry Zerner is just cool dude all around in real life. So, his character essentially delivers the mask to Jason on silver platter. Hey, this ain't dead by daylight. You can't just hop that fence. You guys doing something shouldn't see. If they are, why are you in there? Stop fooling around, man. Right, we've got three people who are mainly responsible. Martin Saddoff, who was the 3D effect supervisor. He originally pulled out the Detroit Red Wings goalie mask for lighting tests. Steve Miner, the director who approved it after seeing the tests. And Doug White, who used vacuum forming to make the mask bigger to fit on our man here. The mask used was Jacqu Plante medium-sized fibrosport goalie mask. These are very rare now and believe they're worth lot of money if you have one. You will see the placement of the vent holes throughout the entire series matches this design. Jacqu Ponte or as Americans like to say Jack's plant was badass Canadian goalie. He played for Montreal in the 50s and 60s and if it wasn't for him, we wouldn't even have anything like this. He invented the goalie mask and he made hockey look dangerous and fun. Also, his first mask was actually pretty scaryl looking and this had to be the inspiration for horror filmmakers. The masks changed over the years. Many versions of his designs were made, but this was the one they actually used to make the film. Not to be confused with this one, which has less vent holes in the forehead. If you're familiar with the blog Jason lives since 1980, you'll know that he already went over this and he claims that it was the mediumsiz mask catalog number 653602 and that Cooper and Rally also made these masks. The Cooper version was known as the HM7. Very interesting if you know about the HM6. So, back to Doug White, the makeup effects director who enlarged the original mask using vacuum forming. Why did he have to do this? To fit the actor better. So, here's little diagram from iqsdirectory.com. That green line at the top is your Jason mask and it heats it up, pulls it right over the book, and looks something like that. Apparently, vacuum forming used to be common because even toy companies like Mattel made them. All we got was creepy crawlers. So, let's take look at Mr. Zerner here. I'm aware in this picture, the mask is little forward and due to perspective will appear larger. But just to see what's going on, let's take look at what this mask would look like on regularized person's face. It's pretty big. See how it sits way over his chin? It's huge. And that's because it had to fit over this guy. British actor and stuntman Richard Brooker. Legendary special effects artist Stan Winston made the under mask which was worn under the mask through the entire film. Why am talking about this in hockey mask video? Well, it's actually important as we'll see later. This facial apparatus is rather large. You can see his shoulders were also built up and he's rather tall man. Thus, the need for larger mask. Here we see the space getting built up around his face. You get the ear, his eyes, the tip of the nose, the chin, eyebrows, everything is coming out. Big lump on his head. regular mask simply would not fit around this face. So, they need something bigger to cover up this big dildo. As you can see here, is looking huge. Coming through the window. Hard to tell cuz no one else is in the shot. Here we go. That is very big mask. Let's have Chuck put light on it for us. That's better. And as you can see from the illumination behind, the forehead stops, but the mask just keeps going and going and going. The first time you realize this, it's shocking. So, where to begin to even find good reference? If you're going to look through the film, it's going to feel like this. thought that the best pick was from this scene, but don't see it anywhere. Of course, this is the pick I'm talking about. It's very good pick and believe it was behind the scenes probably taken when Richard Brooker was just hanging around the set as he never really puts his hand up like this in the film. If you want to play with this the gamma correction, there's filter called sharpen that might work pretty well that haven't tried yet, but do your best to clean up this image to see these cracks. Do not do not use this mask as reference for part three because this is only the stunt mask. It's actually the mask that was used in part four. It's the same mask. It's the actual part three stunt mask. We're not making that one. So, I'm glad we've made this delineation and gotten it out of the way. Part four does feature the part three on the poster. Boy, this is getting confusing. So, this is the hero mask or the main mask used throughout part three. And it might be the best look we ever get at the crackling. It's shame you can't see more of the mask in this picture. This was also the part three hero mask seen in the title sequence of part 4. And oddly enough, part five saw foreign release that also featured the part three mask on the cover. Where did they get this pick? thought the mask was hidden away by this point. Very odd. Comment below if you know anything about this. Here we go, my friends. Off to start the battle that is making the master mask. We must succeed. But believe in you guys. Everyone who's been following along. We've got this. Mainly there's two parts. There's smaller part threes and larger part threes. We're going to go over both and the pros and cons and why they're both pretty cool. You may even have part three that you don't like. And if that's the case, now's your time to get out some sandpaper, scrub that thing down, and get ready for rehaul. So, if you really want the fully accurate film version, you'll need to start with clear blank that you can paint from the inside. This is to expose the whitest parts of the mask later. But if all you have is solid mask, we can work around that. And I'll show you the tips about how to make that look more like the original. Also, you need to decide if you'd like larger or smaller mask. This is what the larger ones look like on hood or bust. really recommend these if you're using them for display or if you just are obsessed with the accuracy of the film. But if not, these smaller ones also work very well. would recommend these for cosplayers. If you're not gigantic person and you're not having the shoulders built out with all that padding and the hood, then the large mask could look kind of weird. And just like any other mask, you're going to start with the 8 inch drill bit through the front vent holes. Don't forget your snap holes. Now, once you've got them all drilled from the front with an eigh inch drill bit, you're going to want to go from the inside with your step bit. If you don't have step bit, you can use regular drill bit up until the point that looks right. Use the inside of the mask as guide. All the blanks are pretty accurate about their vent hole sizes, and you can always compare to your reference as you go along. Also, if you don't have step bit, you'll be using the disc bit to start the eye holes. And you'll just kind of want to drill around those in circle until little hole pops out. And this is just so you can fit your next bit inside. So, you pop these out. Now you start with the drum bit and slowly and methodically carve out the inside of the eyehole, one sweep at time. And you definitely want to check out some references when you do this. And we're just showing stock footage of different masks. It's basically the same process on every Jason mask. real slow. And you can always check your progress by comparing it to your reference. The eyeholes are not just circles. They have weird shapes to them. So, you may want to reshape your mask. And good way to do this is to use little sticks and tape them into the positions you'd like with some really solid tape, like Gorilla tape, and place it over space heater at high heat for 15, 20 minutes. If that doesn't do it, come back in 30. The reason you may want to reshape mask is that the originals do look very narrow. The mask was very thin. It was 060 plastic. And when the mask comes off, and you see the straps are undone, they're not that narrow anymore. The masks may be wider, but if you want that narrow look or the wider look, you're going to have to reshape in some cases. Also during this stage, if you've had any chips taken out of the mask, you can repair them. You see this on the nose vent hole. use super glue and baking soda. Combine those things and they'll be hard as plastic and sand them down into position. Before painting, you'll want to sand the inside and outside of the mask. tend to use fine grit for this. You also want to clear out each vent hole of any excess plastic. And like to shape them up with Dremel little. Now, when you're using clear blank, you only want to spray white primer on the inside of the mask first. This is very important. And as you can see, the white needs to be built up pretty deep on the back so that the sun will not shine through or this will look like little light hole later shining through your nose. like to bring mine inside and outside and look at them. Make sure that our white layers inside are looking right. Also, some paint has built up, so want to clear the vent holes again. Now, on the front of mask, you're going to want to tape off the damaged areas or use Elmer's glue or liquid latex. And once that's done, you want to spray over top of whatever you used with heirloom white or an off-white color. Now you want to carefully remove all the damaged area paint. And this will be different process depending on what you use. Sometimes you peel, sometimes you scrape. The main point is we're creating these few damage areas where we want to expose the inner paint. And you can see the contrast between the two white colors. It's good to scrub the mask off at this stage because lot of overspray comes through. And like to clear coat this as well. And that makes anything you get on the inside easier to clean off later. Also, don't forget while you have your spray paint out to do two snaps of the off-white color. You want to do them from the top and all around the sides. Now, lot of people put these on the mask before, but find that they get in the way of the varnish process. For me, it's lot easier to just do these in advance. We'll be varnishing these up later so they match the outer coats of the mask. Now, if you don't have the benefit of clear blank, we can use any color on the inside of mask. tend to use flat white primer anyway. Now, on the front of the mask, you want to layer up few thick coats of flat white primer. And after the primer dries, spray satin or matte clear over it. Allow this to dry and repeat the process until you have super thick semi-clear layer on top. This is the secret to using solid blanks. If you want them to look more like the original, the more clear the better. Use whole can. Use two cans. It's got to be really thick. So, now that it's all cleared up, you want to apply whatever you use to block the spray paint for the damage areas. used masking tape in this example. And with the damage, you really want to take your time, study the shapes, and cut out little strips or little pieces or push the Elmer's glue into place until it's perfect shape. Now you want to spray over everything with heirloom white or an off-white color. Whatever you use, this color should be slightly darker than the white primer. This creates contrast later in the damage areas. Also, if you see any little funk or fuzz or dust that has accumulated on the mask, you want to get rid of it now. It will cause huge problem later down the road. Now you want to carefully peel away whatever you use to block the spray paint. And you got to be careful because this can take some of your paint with it that you want to keep on the mask. Slow and steady. This one looks like rocket ship. You got the Nike logo on the cheek. Now, this mask, didn't use too many layers of clear, so the effect isn't as noticeable. like to remember what each shape looks like. This one looks like little dog running. And if you think it doesn't, let me show you. Once you see it, you'll never unsee it. Don't forget, spray paint two of these snaps, the off-white color from the top and around the sides. It will be pain later if you have to pull out your spray paint again while you're in the middle of doing other steps. So, just do this now and get it out of the way. Here's contentious step. Now, the original crackling happened in the mask because there was so much varnish on it and the mask was so thin that whenever they moved it or bent it, these little cracks would appear. Now, you could just put some kind of chemical on your varnish to crackle it, but you won't get the same patterns that you see here. So, the only way to do it is by hand. And like to use this reference mainly for the forehead and the cheek, but zip between different references to try to find all the crackles. And the best way found is to painstakingly do them by hand. to create these little patterns. This process can take long time, sometimes days, but it's worth every minute because this is what's going to give you that authentic part three look. use the sharper end of utility knife blade, but you're probably going to want something thinner like Xacto knife. And like to start by adding some detail to the damage areas before start any real cracking and bit by bit just adding little cracks that travel along the surface of the mask in certain directions up and down, left and right. You've just got to look at them and study them. You see the paint actually cracked on its own here. If something like that happens, just add it right into your design. Nothing wrong with that. You see this starting to come along. And the paint likes to chip around the vent holes in like blossoming pattern. And it should start looking something like this. Here's another mask I'm doing the chipping on. Now, for this little cheek area, this little scuff mark, it's good to do this completely by hand, scratching it out instead of using the masking tape method. Should look something like that. There's our doggy. And this one looks to be about done. You really can't take enough time on this stage. Even if it's what takes you the longest, it is 100% worth it. lot of times people stain these cracks to make them darker, but I've used pretty wide blade, and think they stand out well enough on their own. So, you're going to make mess when you do the chevrons, no matter what. Well, unless you use some pre-prepared chevrons that come with kit, and you may or may not want to use them. You've just got to look at the original and compare them to the blank you're using. I'm very particular about my chevrons, but let's not spend lot of time on this. It does matter with the direction they're pointing. They're definitely not symmetrical. I've got little kit here. If you're not going to use the ones that come with mask, which sometimes they work, you're going to cut your own. I've got sheets of different colored red vinyl. believe it's primary red for the part 3es. And I've got little jigs for the small and large masks. And just tracing those out is pretty quick. And cutting it out with vinyl with scissors. Also, the top chevron is going to be cut in half. Not directly down the middle, but off to the side little bit. And I've taken little chip off the bottom so that it is more asymmetrical. The cheek chevrons are actually different lengths. determined this from many hours of staring at them and comparing them. Yes, the one on the right side is little bit longer than the one on the left. Take your time. Get them right. And when they're done, they should look something like that. You see the one on the right side is pointing up into more of the center of the eyehole, and the one on the left side is pointing more towards the nose. Quick reminder to remove anything that might have collected on the mask. This will be permanent. If you do not remove it now, it will get stuck under the varnish and look terrible. If you want to get used to using varnish, you can experiment on your snaps in advance. You definitely want to do that before putting them on the mask or you'll have situation like this. So this is the varnish use and it's what they used in the film. Verichi evanti peruadri patina varnish by my Mary which believe means squid. Now you put this on very thick the first time you use it and you hate it. So, I'm going to show you some ways to avoid that in advance. what you're seeing now is the varnish that's not cut with anything. It's just straight out of the bottle. And I've been over this before. When you're doing it that way, you've got to be super super careful. You see, my hand is not even steady enough to be doing it this way. But I'm going to show you anyway the perils of uncut varnish. See, the color looks nice and it's right now it's going on great, but when get into the center of the mask and it starts becoming more unpredictable, all of this hard work will become ruined. As you can see, so far it looks okay. It's not very even, is it? See, one side of the mask is starting to get lot darker than the other. And had to go through with drier brush and start to scrape away some of the varnish. If you do this while it's still wet, it will settle down. You can fix it, but it is pain. This is why we want to use paint thinner in our varnish and cut it down so it's lot more soupy and easy to apply. As you can see, there is direction to the brush strokes and it follows the contours of the mask. You'll want to keep using this even if you have the thin down varnish. Still want to have that direction to your strokes. And you can see this one is just looking very streaky. Before started thinning the varnish, this always happened. And the only real way to deal with it is to go over it with more coats and to kind of spot it as you go. At any rate, when you're done with layer of varnish, you want to put it under box so it doesn't collect dust. And you let it dry for days. Here is with another couple coats. And you can see that does smooth it out and make it look lot better. It's still little spotty, but that can be okay if you want very dirty looking mask. Also, after it's done, like to sand it with some fine grit very lightly cuz the varnish will be very shiny and new looking. This just gets it ready for acrylics. You really want to wait days and days. Also, the color. You want to decide what color you really want. Is the original really that yellow? Well, you can always take piece of paper and set it next to your mask to see how far you've come along. thought this mask was way too white until did this. This is very good trick to reset your eye. It applies to all your art forms. reset your eye with that white paper and see where you're really at. Also, with this varnish, when it's in the sunlight, it disappears. When it's in regular lit room like this next to my computer, you can see it's pretty accurate to the original. So, in the dark or in normal lighting conditions, it will look yellow. But when you get in the sun or bright white lights, that varnish will disappear and make the mask look completely white like this. Very weird stuff. So, as you watch this video, if you see the mask looking white, just remember it's not really that white. It is more yellow. Also, this patina varnish will age over time and become more yellow. You see in the house here it's looking very white hanging in the barn looking very yellow and back to white. Looks clean as can be here. You'll have lot more control over your final color if you thin the varnish. Not only is it easier to put on, but it's easier to stack up layers. Every layer will be very thin, so you'll be able to put 1 2 3 4, however many you want. And you've got to watch this process as you go along because it's easy to overdo it as well and put on too many coats. Remember, over time it's going to yellow more. So, whatever you do, just assume that in year or two it'll be slightly more yellow. And honestly, don't know how long it takes. do have some masks that put lot of varnish on few years ago and they are yellowed, but it's hard to tell exactly how much varnish used. like to just get it to nice medium yellow now and leave it where it looks right. Eventually, will figure out exactly how many layers of thin varnish to use. It's lot easier to get every little spot in the mask without without it building up too much or looking streaky. There is absolutely no streaks in this as the varnish is so thin that it just spreads instantly when it touches the mask. But there is lot of thinner so you need to wait longer for it to dry. Still totally worth it. This is our second coat. It's little hard to see. But you can tell the mask is gradually getting more yellow. This is actually the same paint thinner you would use to thin oil paints. And here's the completed look of the varnish. Here's what it looks like in the sun. You can't even really see it. Sun just obliterates that color. And here's inside in natural lighting. This is what it actually looks like. And the varnish soaks into all the cracks, smooths them out little, gives everything more texture. Also, like to varnish right over top of my chevrons. Some people like to put the chevrons on later. That's fine if you like to do that. Also, you could try putting the cracking right into the varnish. have not tried that yet. At any rate, when you're done, throw it under the box. You're going to want to wait long time before the next step. So before we start painting, you're going to want to apply your snaps with your snap setting tool. Wait, what? you don't have snap setting tool? okay. Well, you're going to need something like this Leatherface 8 lb sledgehammer. So, just go out to your garage and grab it. because you're going to be needing that to pound down those little snaps. It's actually not bad way to do it. did that for long time before got the snap setting tool, but you're going to waste lot of snaps this way. They tend to bend in weird ways and the snap setting tool is worth it. And your completed snap should look something like this. There we go. See, they pretty much look like they were there when the mask was painted. Now, without further ado, the first thing do is get straight into some grays inside the damage areas. This is really going to make them pop. used to use wash here, but recommend not putting any water on your varnish. It'll soak it right up and it'll get weird and smear around. Just straight gray. We're going to dull down the doggy. very dry paint, stuffing it into the cracks and removing most of it. Each time you do this, that crack is going to get little darker. And I'm also getting more subtle about it as go, putting less and less in there. There we go. looking aged. We'll do this to the other mask. On this one, I'm putting little bit more of brown dirt in. And like to accentuate the cracks in certain areas, just not too much, just enough to make them pop at distance. It's very easy to go overboard with the acrylics, but if you go back and look at the references, you'll see that the mask is actually not that dirty. It's mainly just cracked up. And the more dirt you put on there, the more it's going to cover up lot of the cracking and fine details. There's really just some dirt smudged around the forehead, like at the very top of the mask, some at the bottom, around the mouth, little around the eyes, and most of the dirt is in the cracks or in the damage area cracks and around the nose. There are darker details in the dirt that spotted in the reference. And with mask like this, very small little spots of dirt are going to stand out quite bit. This cheek scuff is actually very darkened with dirt. I'm going to end up filling in lot of that with raw umber. Not using many colors for the dirt. believe I'm just using espresso, raw umber. think that's it. But think those are the two colors used on the dirt for this particular mask. And it's starting to look something like this. Dirty smudges around the nose. You don't want to forget those. Around the top of the mask. And you might spot later some things that you want to change. That's totally fine. You can easily scrub the acrylics off of the varnish. Just be careful not to remove the varnish while you're doing so. So, acrylics stick to varnish differently than they do to spray paint. Looks little too dark in some areas, but honestly, I'm fine with that because it'll pop more at distance. And some little signature splats. That's more of phantom thing. don't think those are on the original, but like to add little more dirt than necessary. So, you might want to just buy straps to save time, but if you want to make them, it's 1- in heavy duty elastic nylon, and you're going to want to cut three strips. This is not what's depicted, but now I'm doing 7 in, 17 in, and 20 in. You're going to want 1-in slider buckles, two of them. And you want to poke hole and get some small cap rivets. This is to secure your buckle. Put it on the edge of something and hammer it down. And you get one that's loop. through the buckle. You want three snap connectors. And we'll put those on the other side of the buckle. So, you'll want loop one like this. And you'll want straight one and the buckle one together. It's not too hard really. like to weather them sometimes. don't think the originals are, but put little rust color on there. If you do that, you'll have to spray them to keep the color down. So, spray them with clear satin or something. And like to fray the edges of the nylon just little bit. So, if you're going to spray your final clear coat, wait for good day or do it inside with fan in the window or something because clear coat, you just don't want to screw that up. It can crackle if it's too wet out or if it's snowing or if it's under 50°. good trick if it's winter time is just wait till it's noon. Get as close as you can to 50° and do it real fast. You'll want to consult your purple table with doilies on it and grab you satin clear or gloss clear. think they use gloss in the film, but like my masks to be little less shiny. This is what the satin looks like. Kryon satin clear. Can also use pre-c catalyzed lacquer. It's probably better. It's little harder. see even the shine looks different indoor or outdoor. Wow. Looks like Jason really did go to hell and get the straps situated and take look at what you've done and think about it. Don't forget to sign your mask if you're selling it or not. Someday you're going to kick the bucket and people want to know who did the mask. This happens all the time. see masks with no signature. also put some foam on the inside to make it nice and cozy. And now for the sad part. spent all this time with this mask and now we're shipping it away. But very appreciative that someone ordered it. This is it. If you want to get good at this mask, you're going to do it again and again and again. I'm telling you, you're not just going to whip this thing out on your first try. It's liflong challenge and I'm so grateful that you are all here for it to see it from the top. We're just going to keep going. and do them all. yeah. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Heat. Thank you so much for watching. Welcome new subscribers. Welcome back old ones. You know the deal. will be back with new mask videos. promise. Peace.