Trash Bashing a One Eyed Mech from Junk

Welcome back to Robot Roundup. Today we're building oneeyed mech out of pill bottle and some soap dispensers. Ready? Let's go. have bunch of these square pill bottles and lot of ideas on what to make with them. use rotary tool to cut the neck off the bottle. It's really messy, so wear good dust mask. picked up cheap fidget toy because it has all these beautiful hinge joints. Just look at all this great stuff. Now, we could just glue the head onto these legs and call it good. Roll the credits. But that's not why we're here. Let's take it bit farther. have few of these soap dispenser pumps and I've always thought they would make good legs for mech. think this is good combination. Creates nice silhouette. cut down the place where the legs will connect. sanded and then do quick flame pass to smooth it out even more. pop some of the hinge pieces out of the fidget spinner and glue them to the soap dispenser. For the front of the legs, I'll add some foam circles. glued them on with super glue. like that the shape has little bump on the bottom and it adds little bit of more interest. do the same thing for the other three legs. Found dollhouse cooking pot which is the perfect size for an eye socket. like how the handles add little bit more detail like they're little flanges or something. With circle template, find the right size and trace it onto the body. Use an X-acto knife to cut out the circle. clean the cut bit more and then do test fit. have another dollhouse pan which looks like it's from the same set. like that the sizes match. It look good on the side of the head as maybe an antenna or even better blaster. plastic sewing bobbin fits right inside as swivel. That tealight battery hatch looks good for back panel. It's also about the same circumference as the other bits. It takes while to find the right chassis piece for attaching the legs to. almost go with this spout, which has four attachment points, but it's too bulky. settled on this plastic syringe plunger. like that it's already divided into quadrants for the hinges. It's bit too long, so measure and cut it. Then sand all the parts down. You always have to sand plastic bits to get better glue and paint adhesion. Cut the end off the pan handle and hollow it out with small drill to make gun barrel. Added some bits to make more lasery looking blaster and glued it all together. also added pin for gluing it in the right place. And toyed with having it swivel, but in the end decided not to. I've also glued on the back panel. drill holes in the hinge pieces in the chassis. I'm using some plastic pins to hold them together. Perfect heat adds little bit more detail. do the same thing for all four legs. used the pin cut offs for some added chassis detail. And the chassis is done. cut down stir stick to find the optimal length of the leg strut. and it turned out to be the same size as paper clip. So, that's freebie. The paper clip also fits nicely into the joint. just want the inner curves of the paper clip, so cut few. And I'll join them together and add some more hydraulic looking detail with some aluminum tube cutings. use the guides on my cutting mat to glue the leg at the ideal angle and support it while the glue dries. After gluing the first two legs in place, use some poster putty to stick the chassis to small cap while glue the rest of the legs together. To finish the legs, I'll use these small half circle beads as rivets. Dab them into pot of superglue and attach them to the foam circle. The foam acts kind of like sponge and it just soaks up the glue. The bottom little flange of the circle gets larger rivet. And add another one below it. Just it seemed to fit there. Now the legs are done. And take off the little cap was using as jig. Off camera, made small antenna by gluing another little plastic pin into calculator button. Then cut plastic rod piece to grip the back of the button. And that completes the initial build stage. little bit of gray primer transforms it from colorful clown toy to an elite mechanized war machine. Burnt iron is one of my go-to colors for painting robot chassis. And when airbrushing Tama paints, always thin them. I've had good results with Mr. Color leveling thinner. Takes while to learn the right consistency. You want it thin enough that the paint almost dries as soon as it makes contact with the model. For the body, I'll be using Mission Model Red as well as red oxide to mix duller red. Mission Model paints have their own thinner and like them because they have less fumes. always wear respirator and use the spray booth. start by working my way across all the edges, giving them kind of an outline. And then with larger spray, lightly fill in all the big areas. This gives subtle and worn faded look. do the same thing for the front of the legs. I'm hand painting all the metal details with metallic gray, which is like gunmetal color. should have waited to glue the spool on because it's bit of pain to paint underneath. usually try and build things in components so that they can be painted separately rather than gluing it all together and then trying to mask seams or carefully paint around edges. And then finished the leg details. finished by dry brushing some silver to bring out the edges of the chassis. I'm using UV resin to attach the glass eye lens to its socket. wanted like rich, dark, glossy eye and was hoping that the resin would hold it in place to black background piece. dropped the lens in place and then cured it. Except that this produced some trapped air bubbles, which didn't care for. So, for second attempt, got new lens and just painted the back of it black. Then, used regular glue and put all the pieces together. This turned out lot better and was way simpler. good mech always has some dangling tubes and wiry bits hanging off of it. So, cut some thin black electrical wire and glue loops of it to the chassis. also drill some small holes and thread wire from the antenna to the back of the body. Now it's time to glue it all together. The eye fits pretty snugly. And you can see where some of the paint came off from prior test fit. So when add weathering, can retouch and hide little scratches like that. I'm adding some water slide decals. These ones are from Gundam kit. After soaking in water for few minutes, they slide off of the backing and onto the model. While it's wet, there's few minutes to adjust the position. Then use micro saw to set them. This softens the decal and sort of melt it into place. do the same thing for an insignia number. got this sheet from hobby store that had bin of random decals in the back. found another little panel for the antenna. have set of differentiz black cababishons. I'm taking few of the smaller ones and glue them on as additional eyes or maybe sensors. It adds to the creepy spider look. want to add some rust and wear marks. start by tearing off some small bits of foam and hold it in place with tweezers. I'm going to use whole red and start dabbing on some rust spots onto some of the edges. paint few scratches onto the legs and also hit it with few dabs of silver to indicate some fresher scratches and ding marks. give the entire thing an oil wash of thin down burnt umber oil paint. This flows into all the little nooks and crannies and add some rust streaks to the flat parts of the body. And with that, think it's ready to wreak some havoc. Thanks for watching. Robots rule and so do you. See you at the next roundup.